By: John S. Morlu II, CPA
If Sri Lanka’s geography gives it power, its people give it soul. This island isn’t just a strategic gem — it’s a human mosaic. The kind where every smile tells a story, every dish holds a secret, and every bus ride is a masterclass in patience, percussion, and population density.
So, now that we’ve mapped the land, let’s meet the humans, sip the tea, and explain why even emotionally constipated travelers end up tearing up at the airport.
The People: Polite, Resilient, and Culturally Fluent
Let’s start with the obvious: Sri Lankans are nice. Like, unnervingly nice. The kind of nice where you question whether you’ve just entered a tourism simulation.
But this kindness isn’t performative. It’s been carved by centuries of colonialism, war, tsunami, inflation, and political chaos. Kindness here is strategy. When life throws you Dutch, Portuguese, British, a 30-year civil war, and then a blackout — you either learn to smile or spontaneously combust.
Sri Lankans chose grace.
You’ll meet:
- Sinhalese: The ethnic majority (~75%), primarily Buddhist. Famous for their temples, rice & curry, and inexplicable ability to walk barefoot across hot gravel like it’s a spa day.
- Tamils: Concentrated in the north and east, as well as the hill country (upcountry Tamils). Mostly Hindu, and known for their deep cultural pride, spicy cuisine, and poetic resistance.
- Muslims: An entrepreneurial minority found all across the country. Their food is the bridge between Indian biryani and Arab comfort. Also, no wedding on earth is louder or more gold-infused.
- Burghers: Descendants of European colonists. You’ll find them speaking English like BBC announcers, baking cakes that need subtitles, and inventing slang that deserves its own dictionary.
- Veddas: The indigenous people. Few in number, deeply spiritual, and living reminders that civilization didn’t begin with concrete.
This is a country where a Catholic can pray at a Buddhist shrine after sharing biryani with a Muslim family while learning Tamil from their Sinhalese boss. And no one bats an eye. It’s not utopia — just lived tolerance, with a little gossip and a lot of coconut.
The Culture: Tea, Tempo, and Totally Unexpected Traditions
Religion in High Definition
- Buddhism is not just a religion — it’s a user interface. Walk into any city and you’ll see Bodhi trees wrapped in cloth, monks with iPhones, and lotus flowers sold like newspapers.
- Hinduism brings color, fire, and 108 reasons to ring bells.
- Islam is quietly powerful, especially at 5:30 a.m. when the call to prayer gently wakes you from a dream about jackfruit.
- Christianity, mostly Catholic, celebrates with firecrackers and candles, sometimes both at the same time. Safety is not a concern — faith is.
Music, Dance & Drama
Traditional music here is rhythmic warfare — drums (getabera), cymbals, and chants that feel more like battle cries. Combine that with kandyan dancing, which is equal parts martial arts, acrobatics, and divine audition, and you’ve got art that moves your soul and your internal organs.
You’ll also see weddings with more outfit changes than a Beyoncé concert and funerals that include live bands — because even in mourning, style matters.
Tea Is Not a Drink — It’s a Spiritual Assignment
Sri Lanka is the fourth-largest tea exporter in the world. Every cup of Ceylon tea comes from leaf pickers (mostly Tamil women) who wake before dawn and carry more on their backs than most of us do in therapy.
In Sri Lanka, you don’t just “have tea.” You make time for tea. You ask for gossip during tea. You fix relationships, negotiate deals, and process heartbreak — all over tea.
The Food: Spice, Soul, and the Unofficial National Sport
You haven’t lived until you’ve had a plate of rice and curry so spicy it makes your ancestors weep.
Meals are served on banana leaves, eaten with hands (right hand only, please), and accompanied by things you didn’t know could be pickled. Every dish feels like an edible TED Talk about identity.
Must-tries:
- Pol Sambol: Shredded coconut + chili + lime = emotional damage.
- Hoppers: Bowl-shaped pancakes with a sunny-side-up surprise.
- Kottu Roti: Street food that sounds like a typewriter and tastes like salvation.
- Lamprais: A colonial leftover that says, “I’m European, but make it edible.”
Pro tip: Never say no to a second helping. That’s not just food — that’s affection.
Everyday Life: Beautiful Chaos in Flip-Flops
The tuk-tuk is the national chariot. You haven’t experienced Sri Lanka until you’ve:
- Dodged traffic in a tuk-tuk going 70 km/h
- Paid in cash, prayer, and confusion
- Held a live chicken while checking Google Maps
Colombo is fast and unpredictable. Kandy is cool and spiritual. Jaffna is proud and poetic. Galle is colonial and Instagrammable. And the villages? That’s where the real Sri Lanka lives — unbothered, unfiltered, and almost always barefoot.
Why You’ll Cry When You Leave
You think you came for the beaches, the elephants, or the wellness retreat with overpriced turmeric shots.
But you’ll leave missing:
- The auntie who gave you free jackfruit because “you look tired.”
- The driver who became your therapist.
- The stranger who said “Come, eat with us” — and meant it.
- The rhythmic “sir, madam, tea?” echoing from every direction.
You’ll cry because Sri Lanka doesn’t show off — it shows up. And in a world that’s increasingly transactional, this island is relational.
It doesn’t just touch your camera lens. It touches your spirit — and then quietly asks, “Would you like a refill?”
Next Up: My Sri Lanka – Part 3
“War, Peace, and the Battle for the Soul of Paradise”
But until then, say a prayer for your taste buds, back up your camera roll, and start plotting your return trip.
Because once Sri Lanka finds a home in your heart — it doesn’t give it back.
About the Author
John is an entrepreneur, strategist, and founder of JS Morlu, LLC, a Virginia based CPA firm with multiple software ventures including www.FinovatePro.com, www.Recksoft.com and www.Fixaars.com . With operations spanning multiple countries, John is on a mission to build global infrastructure that empowers small businesses, entrepreneurs, and professionals to thrive in an increasingly competitive world. He believes in hard truths, smart execution, and the relentless pursuit of excellence. When he’s not writing or building, he’s challenging someone to a productivity contest—or inventing software that automates it.
